Why aren't surfers afraid of being swept away by the water?
Tiempo de liberación:
2024-05-15 14:13
Surfing involves the athlete lying or kneeling on the board and paddling with their hands to a spot with a suitable wave as a starting point. As the wave propels the board along, the athlete keeps the board in front of the crest and stands up, spreading the legs naturally back and forth (usually with the balance leg in front and the control leg behind), with the knees slightly bent, and following the wave at a rapid pace.
When surfing, use the direction of movement of the body (but not backwards). It is also the inertia of the body that keeps you from falling into the water. You will see the surfer is leaning over his predecessor, which not only increases speed, but also prevents the water from falling. Will the water sink if it doesn't flow? This depends on whether or not a person has a high level of balance. If not, the person will fall into the water and the surfboard will not sink.
The principle of the surfboard is to make the contact pressure with the water surface smaller by increasing the force area. When surfing, the direction of movement of the body is utilised (but not backwards). Also the inertia of the body does not come off. You will see that the surfer is leaning over his or her predecessor, which not only increases speed, but also prevents the water from falling off.
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“When you surf, as I then understood it, you live and breathe waves. You always know what the surf is doing. You cut school, lose jobs, lose girlfriends, if it’s good.”
Surfing is not just about hitting the waves with a board; it’s also about unraveling the secrets that lie beneath the ocean’s beauty. It’s no surprise that a good surfer will not only have impeccable balance and resilience but also vast knowledge about the ocean and its mechanisms.
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